10 per cent of cotton will be organic by 2015-20, says Organic Exchange

Ever wondered how much global cotton is organic? No? It's not really pub banter, is it? Well, it's less than one per cent right now, but - if the Organic Exchange's optimistic hopes are right - it could jump to 10 per cent within a decade. I've just been chatting with the Exchange's director, Rebecca Calahan Klein, and she told me that between 2015 and 2020 is a realistic time-frame. If you're thinking 'that's great, but why can't I find organic cotton on the high street right now? Why did H&M not re-order its organic range after flogging it in 3 weeks?', then keep the faith.

Rebecca and her exec director (and US organic cotton farmer) LaRhea Pepper reminded me of the long time-frames behind growing crop and getting it in shops - most of this year's organic cotton fashion, for example, was planted in 2004. Apparently, supply has grown massively in the last two years alone.

LaRhea and Rebecca were also, as you'd expect, keen to flag organic cotton's benefits. To farmers: $0.75-$1.25 for a pound of organic cotton versus around $56 for conventional cotton, workers in fields rather than workers dodging toxic sprays, less outlay on pricey fertilisers, soil that'll adapt better to climate change and higher yields after organic's bedded in. For the environment, there were also keen to point out the lower carbon emissions that come with ditching petroleum-based fertilisers and their opinion that organic soil that acts as a better carbon sink than conventionally-farmed soil (they're producing a report on this right now, but it's a year away from publication).

Interestingly, the meeting was setup by and took place at the Shell Foundation, which I'm still incredibly ambivalent towards because of Shell's human rights record, even if it is a separate company. Still, one of my darker green friends told me they actually think the Shell Foundation do some good stuff. I'd be interested to hear any thoughts on the Foundation or tales of your experience of buying organic cotton on the high street.

Photo: Natural Collection

Comments

[Garrett]

I am just wondering if organic cotton is at all different (ie, texture, feel, consistency) than the current harvested cotton blend? I mean, it can't be too bad...when you consider the price differential of organic cotton and also the reduced fertilizer effect, organic cotton may definitely be the way to go.

[Adam Vaughan]

Hi Garrett, in my experience - I've got a few organic cotton t-shirts and jeans - it's almost exactly the same. Some people say it's softer than conventional cotton, but I think that's just marketing spin - it's much of a muchness.